All About Surfing



"Surfing is the ultimate spontaneous involvement in a natural medium"~Dale Webster



This video was made with a GoPro® HD Surf HERO™ Camera

at Playa Encuentro, Cabarete, Dominican Republic.It was a 2-3 foot day at a nice 9 second period. The camera was mounded on a Blue Shape's Funboard with dimensions 7'2'' x 20 1/2'' x 2 3/4' & FCS M5 fins. If any of this is confusing. After reading this & other related pages, it won't be.

In this water sport a rider paddles on to a breaking wave attempting to match his speed with that of the wave, while laying horizontally on a surfboard, catches the wave then pops-up vertically, & rides the crest & the face of the wave towards the shore line. It sounds simple in words, but has taken me most of my life to try to master. Some days I still feel like a complete beginner, but that is the challenge. Each Wave is unique as a thumb print.

Most riden waves are found in the ocean, but some are found in lakes, rivers, and in manmade wave pools. The addition of other water sports such as Windsurfing, KitesurfingBodyboarding, Kayaking, Stand Up Paddle has expanded the tribe. It doesn't matter what vehicle you use to ride a wave, if you are catching waves you are a Surfer. See how well telling a Hawaiian Outrigger Canoer that he is not Surfer goes. Surfing is as much a lifestyle as it is a water sport.A waterman is a surfer, but not all surfers are watermen. To know what a waterman is, Check out the Homepage of this website.

Swell is in coming Waves to a Surf BreakIt is created when wind blows consistently over an open body of water. When this happens it is called Wind Fetch. The more distance the swell travels the better it breaks. This is one reason why Hawaii, the most isolated place on the planet, gets such amazing waves.

Until recently Has the sport progressed so did the equipment. Early in surfboards were shaped by hand from an Artisan known as a Shaper.Has the sport progressed so did the equipment. Early in the History of Surfingboards were made of solid wood. in the 1940's Balsa wood was introduced which made the boards significantly lighter & more maneuverable.In the 1950's Polyurethane with balsa wood stringers and fiberglass (PU) were introduced which has the shaper's choice ever since. Recently there have been newer, more environmentally friendly, & less ding resistant boards such as Epoxy Resin and even Carbon Fiber.

Other than a board, a leash, a stick of wax, a pair of Boardshorts

& maybe a Surfing Wetsuit

, there is not too much else you need. This purism is what has always drawn me to this water sport. Bodysurfing is the purest form of the sport & a great way to learn how to catch waves. Every waterman should be a good Bodysurfer.

Surfing takes a fair bit of FitnessI try to do Water Sport specific training. I am using a great home program Total Surfing Fitness.It advertises that you will catch more waves. I will say it has not only done as advertised, but has helped in my overall fitness levels. There is a Free Trail Exercise that you can download for just joining the email list. Click Here! to check out this great home program.


Below is a professionally made GoPro HD Video staring two amazing Surfers, Sunny Garcia and Kalani Rob. They are riding "Backdoor" which is the right handed wave at the Banzai Pipeline, located on the North Shore of the Hawaiian Island of Oahu.



More Surfing Pages

All About Surf ReportsBeing able to read a report/forecast is key to scoring good waves, but the report can be kinda of confusing. Check out this page to find out all need to know.

All About the History of SurfingThis is a good overview of the history form Polynesia to The United States. There are recent discoveries that Peru might have had the first wave riders, more to come on that.

All About WavesThese are are our ultimate pursuit. Have the best knowledge can give you the best ride! Check out this page to find out all about these gifts from nature.

All About Surf BreaksWhat makes a wave break they way it does? Well it has a lot to do with what is under us. Check out this page to find out all about the places you ride waves.

All About the ASP World TourThis page will tell you all you need to know about professional surfing.

All About SurfboardsAll you need to know about surfboards including Surfboard Parts , types of surfboards, & materials used

All About Shortboards An in depth look at the type of Surfboard that has dominated line ups for over a quarter of a century.

All About Longboards All You need to know about the Board that started it all!

All About Funboards All About the board that's name describes all you need to know... FUN!

All About Fish SurfboardsThe comeback kid of surfboards. It was first on the scene in the 1970's but had a re-birth in the 1990's and again with the introduction of Quad-Fin set up.

All About Ding RepairDinging your Board can really suck, but with a little help it can be a quick & easy Waterman Skill.